DERMOCOSMETIC ASSESSMENT
Scientific Supervisor: MªLluïsa Coderch
The DERMOCOSMETIC ASSESSMENT Service (DC) was constituted in 2002. DC service is divided in three groups: Skin Absorption group, Skin Efficacy group and Hair Efficacy group.
Skin Absorption group is specialized in determining the absorption profile through the skin of any compound when it is topically applied, using mainly an in vitro experimental methodology adopted by the OECD.
Meanwhile, the Skin Efficacy group is specialized in evaluating the efficacy of formulations applied to the skin and nails. The methodologies applied are based, preferably, on the use of biophysical techniques published in internationally recognized scientific journals.
Furthermore, the Hair Efficacy group works evaluating in vitro the efficacy of cosmetic products in human hair.
The service developed is focused on the needs of the industry (pharmacy, cosmetic, chemical and textile) and also on its own research and that of other groups requiring its scientific expertise support.
DC Service stands out for the quality granted by belonging to IQAC-CSIC research group, so DC service also offers:
- Scientific assessment / technical support
- Appropriated testing procedures
- Customized services
- Optimization and validation of new methodologies
- Scientific collaboration
MANAGEMENT RECOGNITION OF SERVICE OF DERMOCOSMETIC SERVICE
Service of DermosCosmetic Assesment (DC) from the IQAC-CSIC, have since May 2012, a Quality System of Management in accordance with the UNE-EN ISO 9001:2008 certified by AENOR with the reference ER-0430/2012.
In addition, the percutaneous absorption part of the DC service is certificated in GPL (Good Practice Laboratories).
Lluisa Coderch
Scientific Supervisor
luisa.coderch@iqac.csic.es
Meritxell Martí
Technical Direction
meritxell.marti@iqac.csic.es
Cristina Alonso
Technician
cristina.alonso@iqac.csic.es
1. PERCUTANEOUS ABSORPTION
The Percutaneous Absorption group deals with the knowledge and quantitation of the skin absorption of a given compound topically applied. Using an in vitro methodology officially adopted by the OECD (2004), the distribution of a chemical in the different skin compartments (stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis) can be detected and quantified.
Dermal absorption tests
A percutaneous absorption protocol depends on a number of experimental factors such as exposure time, presence or absence of occlusion, formulation type and frequency of use. Dermal absorption is evaluated on human skin, porcine skin, membranes or cosmeto-textiles.
Some tests are:
- Conventional in vitro tests using porcine or human skin (exposure time: 24h).
- Conventional compartment kinetics (stratum corneum, epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid) of a compound or a cosmeto‐textile topically applied.
- In vitro compartmental distributionof a topically applied compound or cosmeto‐
- Skin penetration kinetics (receptor fluid)of a topically applied compound or cosmeto‐
- Simulation of the percutaneous absorptionusing in vitro skin previously modified (“stripping”, solvents or SLS).
- The behaviour of impaired skin(psoriatic, eczematous) during the percutaneous absorption may be simulated.
- Dermatopharmacokinetic testsusing the in vivo stripping technique as a bioequivalence approach for topically applied compounds.
- In vitro release test through different synthetic membranes using FDA Guidelines. (Bioequivalence test, SUPAC-SS).
2. SKIN EFFICACY
The Skin Efficacy group deals with the experimental design, evaluation and objective diagnostic of the skin efficacy and tolerance of cosmetic and dermatologic formulations topically applied by the use of non-invasive biophysical techniques. Evaluation and diagnosis of other keratinized tissues such as human nails are also evaluated.
Skin Efficacy Tests
In vivo skin efficacy
Studies are conducted with Caucasian panellists with skin phototype III-IV in a conditioned room at 22ºC and 50% RH under dermatological control. Some of these protocols are also used on nails.
- Hydration capacity of skin or nails due to topically applied formulations (Corneometer).
- Water Sorption-Desorption test on skin (Corneometer).
- Barrier Function of skin and/or nails (Tewameter).Protection capacity of the barrier function of skin and/or nails in front of surfactants, solvents or stripping (Tewameter, Corneometer).
- Repair capacity of damaged skin or nails in front of surfactants, solvents or stripping (Tewameter, Corneometer).
- Melanin typology assesment and erythema detection (Mexameter).
- Firming effect on skin elasticity (Cutometer).
- Assessment of skin surface pH (Skin-pHmeter).
- Determination of fat content of the skin (Sebumeter).
- Assessment of skin surface topography with silicon resin (Visioline)
In vitro skin efficacy
- Separation, extraction and lipid analysis of epidermis and dermis (TLC-FID).
- Antioxidant effect of cosmetics on skin, by an “ex vivo” test on skin lipoperoxidation (TBARS).
- Degradative treatments of nails: acetone, hydration/dehydration cycles.
- Absorption/desorption kinetics to determine the permeability of stratum corneum and/or nails (DVS). Thermic Analysis Service (SAT)
3. HAIR EFFICACY
The Hair Efficacy group deals with the experimental design and evaluation of the in vitro efficacy of cosmetic formulations applied to the hair.
Hair efficacy tests
- Degradative treatments of hair, permanent, bleaching, relaxed, UV photodegradation, etc
- Extraction and analysis of hair lipids (TLC/FID)
- Surface hidrophobicity/hydrophilicity. Contact angle determination (electrobalance KSV Sigma 70)
- Moisture content. Thermogravimetric analysis (TGA TG-50). (Thermal Analysis Service, SAT)
- Absorption/desorption kinetics (DVS) to determine hair permeability (Thermobalance TA ). (SAT)
- Thermotropic evaluation with Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) to determine thermal stability of hair’s major morphological components (DSC-821). (SAT)
- Mechanical properties of human hair such as elasticity, extension and energy at break, etc. (Dinamometer Instron 5500R)
- Capilar surface visualization by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) in collaboration with the Service of Microscopy of the Barcelona University (UB).
- Colour determination (Datacolor 400)
- Protein degradation after UV irradiation (colorimetric Bradford Test)
- Free radical evaluation formed in the oxidative process (Electronic Paramagnetic Resonance Spectrometer (EPR) EMX-Plus 10/12 Bruker BioSpin). Magnetic Resonance Service
- Hair Lipid peroxidation. Malonilaldehide content determination using barbituric acid test (TBARS).
- Hair gloss evaluation (Glossmeter Micor-TRI-gloss).
- Tryptophan degradation (Spectrofluerimetric assess)
IQAC
Institut de Química Avançada de Catalunya
c/ Jordi Girona 18-26
08034 Barcelona - Spain
Ph: +34 93 400 61 00
Fax: +34 93 204 59 04