COSMETIC AND TEXTILE INNOVATIONS
Group Leader: Mª Luisa Coderch
The main scientific activity of this group focuses on the study of cosmetic and textile application of vehicles, able to encapsulate active principles. These lipid structures, such as liposomes, microspheres, etc., modulate the penetration of the actives in the different substrates. The effectiveness of the topical application on skin or hair to improve the hydration and skin barrier function, lipid peroxidation, etc. is evaluated. Percutaneous absorption profile of these formulations after being applied directly to the skin or through biofunctional textiles are also being studied.
The basic knowledge of hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of lipid-proteinaceous keratin systems, such as wool, human hair and stratum corneum of human skin is also being explored. This knowledge is essential to design formulations for industrial application in the textile, cosmetic and dermopharmaceutic fields.
- Skin morphology, particularly lipidic structure of stratum corneum
- Vehiculization and penetration of topical actives in the different skin strata
- Cutaneous hydration role in skin barrier function
- Hair morphology, particularly external and internal lipid structuration
- Ethnic hairs, differential aspects of their lipidic composition and structure
- Effects of antioxidants in skin and hair
- Biofunctional textiles, design, formation and characterization
- Skin effect of biofunctional textiles submitted to skin contact
Scientific staff
Mª Luisa Coderch
Research Professor
luisa.coderch@iqac.csic.es
Lab people
Meritxell Martí
Research assistant
meritxell.marti@iqac.csic.es
Cristina Alonso
Postdoctoral Researcher
cristina.alonso@iqac.csic.es
Jordi Plaza
Technician
jordi.plaza@iqac.csic.es
- Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants-
Coderch, L., Alonso, C., García, M.T., Pérez, L., Martí, M.
Cosmetics, 10 (4), art. no. 107, 2023.
- Nanobubble Technology for A Water-Repellent Treatment on Cotton Fabrics: A Comparative Study-
Zouari, A., Manich, A., Marti, M., Gargoubi, S., Boudokhane, C.
ChemEngineering, 7 (3), art. no. 47, 2023.
- Application of Lavender-Oil Microcapsules to Functionalized PET Fibers-
Valle, R.D.C.S.C., Valle, J.A.B., Bezerra, F.M., Correia, J., da Costa, C., Martí, M., Coderch, L., López, A., Arias, M.J.L.
Polymers, 15 (4), art. no. 917, 2023.
- Formation and Characterization of Oregano Essential Oil Nanocapsules Applied onto Polyester Textile-
Carla Salinas, Manuel J. Lis, Luisa Coderch and Meritxell Martí
Polymers 2022, 14(23), 5188
- Kinetics of alkaline delignification of hemp and determination of lignin content by thermogravimetry-
Mijas, G., Lis, M.-J., Pérez-Rentero, S., Riba-Moliner, M., Martí, M., Cayuela, D., Manich, A.
Journal of Wood Chemistry and Technology, 42 (3), pp. 181-192. 2022
- Graphite flame retardant applied on polyester textiles: flammable, thermal and in vitro toxicological analysis-
Alonso, C., Manich, A., Campo, A.D., Felix-De Castro, P., Boisseree, N., Coderch, L., Martí, M.
Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2022
- Polymeric nanoparticles and chitosan gel loading ketorolac tromethamine to alleviate pain associated with condyloma acuminata during the pre‐ and post‐ablation-
El Moussaoui, S., Abo‐horan, I., Halbaut, L., Alonso, C., Coderch, L., Garduño‐ramírez, M.L., Clares, B., Soriano, J.L., Calpena, A.C., Fernández‐campos, F., Mallandrich, M.
Pharmaceutics, 13 (11), art. no. 1784, 2021.
- Lipid distribution on ethnic hairs by Fourier transform infrared synchrotron spectroscopy-
Barba, C., Oliver, M.A., Martí, M., Kreuzer, M., Coderch, L.
Skin Research and Technology, 28 (1), pp. 75-83. 2022
- Increased comfort of polyester fabrics-
Martí, M., Gisbert-Paya, J., Bonet-Aracil, M.Á., Jovančić, P., Lis, M.J., Coderch, L.
Polymers, 13 (17), art. no. 3010, 2021
- Lanolin-based synthetic membranes for transdermal permeation and penetration drug delivery assays-
Alonso, C., Collini, I., Martí, M., Barba, C., Coderch, L.
Membranes, 11 (6), art. no. 444, 2021
- Influence of alkaline delignification on moisture uptake behavior and bonding enthalpies of hemp-
Albert M. Manich, Manuel J. Lis, Sonia Perez‐Rentero, Ines Algaba, Meritxell Marti, Diana Cayuela
Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 138 (39), art. no. 50990, 2021
- Enzymatic Synthesis of Phloretin α‐Glucosides Using a Sucrose Phosphorylase Mutant and its Effect on Solubility, Antioxidant Properties and Skin Absorption-
Jose L. Gonzalez-Alfonso, Zorica Ubiparip, Elena Jimenez-Ortega,Ana Poveda, Cristina Alonso, Luisa Coderch, Jesus Jimenez-Barbero, Julia Sanz-Aparicio, Antonio O. Ballesteros, Tom Desmet and Francisco J. Ploua
Adv. Synth. Catal. 2021, 363, 1 – 12
- Assessment of finite and infinite dose in vitro experiments in transdermal drug delivery-
Coderch, L., Collini, I., Carrer, V., Barba, C., Alonso, C.
Pharmaceutics, 13 (3), art. no. 364, .2021
- Mathematical models for drug delivery from textile-
Martí, M., Martínez, V., Lis, M.J., Coderch, L
Journal of Industrial Textiles, 50 (8), pp. 1225-1238. 2021
- Topical mucoadhesive alginate-based hydrogel loading ketorolac for pain management after pharmacotherapy, ablation, or surgical removal in condyloma acuminata-
Moussaoui, S.E., Fernández-Campos, F., Alonso, C., Limón, D., Halbaut, L., Garduño-Ramirez, M.L., Calpena, A.C., Mallandrich, M.
Gels, 7 (1), art. no. 8, pp. 1-20. 2021
- Permeation kinetics of active drugs through lanolin-based artificial membranes-
Alonso, C., Collini, I., Carrer, V., Barba, C., Martí, M., Coderch, L.
Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, 192, art. no. 111024, 2020
- Effect of propylene glycol on the skin penetration of drugs-
Carrer, V., Alonso, C., Pont, M., Zanuy, M., Córdoba, M., Espinosa, S., Barba, C., Oliver, M.A., Martí, M., Coderch, L.
Archives of Dermatological Research, 312 (5), pp. 337-352. 2020
- Ethnic hair: Thermoanalytical and spectroscopic differences-
Oliver, M.A., Coderch, L., Carrer, V., Barba, C., Marti, M.
Skin Research and Technology, 26 (5), pp. 617-626. 2020
- Effect of propylene glycol on the skin penetration of drugs-
Carrer, V., Alonso, C., Pont, M., Zanuy, M., Córdoba, M., Espinosa, S., Barba, C., Oliver, M.A., Martí, M., Coderch, L.
Archives of Dermatological Research, 2019
- A comparative study of oregano (Origanum vulgare L.) essential oil-based polycaprolactone nanocapsules/ microspheres: Preparation, physicochemical characterization, and storage stability-
Fraj, A., Jaâfar, F., Marti, M., Coderch, L., Ladhari, N.
Industrial Crops and Products, 140, art. no. 111669, 2019 .
- Action of surfactants on the mammal epidermal skin barrier-
Barba, C., Semenzato, A., Baratto, G., Coderch, L.
Giornale italiano di dermatologia e venereologia : organo ufficiale, Societa italiana di dermatologia e sifilografia, 154 (4), pp. 405-412. 2019
- Prediction of the skin permeability of topical drugs using in silico and in vitro models-
Alonso, C., Carrer, V., Espinosa, S., Zanuy, M., Córdoba, M., Vidal, B., Domínguez, M., Godessart, N., Coderch, L., Pont, M.
European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 136, art. no. 104945, 2019
- Mathematical models for drug delivery from textile-
Martí, M., Martínez, V., Lis, M.J., Coderch, L.
Journal of Industrial Textiles, .2019
- Selective modification of skin barrier lipids-
Barba, C., Alonso, C., Martí, M., Carrer, V., Yousef, I., Coderch, L.
Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis, 172, pp. 94-102. 2019
- External lipid function in ethnic hairs-
Coderch, L., Oliver, M.A., Carrer, V., Manich, A.M., Martí, M.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2019 - Influence of the chromatographic conditions of the EN ISO 17226-1 Standard "determination of formaldehyde content in leather. Part 1. Quantification by hplc" on the robustness of the method-
Manich, A.M., Cuadros, S., Marsal, A., Reyes, M.-R., Font, J.
Journal of the American Leather Chemists AssociationVolume 114, Issue 2, February 2019, Pages 55-61 - Lipid loses and barrier function modifications of the brown-to-white hair transition-
Oliver, M.A., Marti, M., Coderch, L., Carrer, V., Kreuzer, M., Barba, C.
Skin Research and Technology, 2019
- Vehiculation of Active Principles as a Way to Create Smart and Biofunctional Textiles-
Arias, M.J.L., Coderch, L., Martí, M., Alonso, C., Carmona, O.G., Carmona, C.G., Maesta, F.
Materials, 11 (11), art. no. 2152, . 2018
- In vitro penetration through the skin layers of topically applied glucocorticoids-
Carrer, V., Alonso, C., Oliver, M.A., Coderch, L.
Drug Testing and Analysis, 10 (10), pp. 1528-1535. 2018
- Hair strengthening evaluation of anisotropic osmolite solutions (Inositol + Arginine): Cross-talk between dermal papilla fibroblast and eratinocytes of the outer root sheath using a μhair follicle 3d model-
Baratto, G., Caviola, E., Meloni, M., Lionetti, N., Bonfigli, A., Sironi, M., Pieraccini, S., Oliver, M., Coderch, L., Rigano, L.
Cosmetics, 5 (4), art. no. 56, . 2018
- Caffeine delivery in porcine skin: a confocal Raman study-
Alonso, C., Carrer, V., Barba, C., Coderch, L.
Archives of Dermatological Research, 310 (8), pp. 657-664., 2018
- Lanolin-based synthetic membranes as percutaneous absorption models for transdermal drug delivery-
Carrer, V., Guzmán, B., Martí, M., Alonso, C., Coderch, L.
Pharmaceutics, 10 (3), art. no. 73 (2018).
- Formaldehyde scavengers for cleaner production: A case study focused on the leather industry-
Agustí Marsal, Sara Cuadros, Lluís Ollé, Anna Bacardit, Albert Mª Manich, Joaquim Font
J Cleaner Production 2018, 186 45-56.
- Dyestuffs and formaldehyde content in split leather treated with formaldehyde resins-
Marsal, A., Cuadros, S., Cuadros, R.M., Font, J., Manich, A.M.
Dyes and Pigments 2018, 158, pp. 50-59.
- Solvent-Extracted Wool Wax: Thermotropic Properties and Skin Efficacy-
Barba Albanell, C., Carrer, V., Marti, M., Iglesias, J., Iglesias, J., Coderch, L.Skin PharmacolPhysiol, pp. 198-205. (2018).
- The role of SeDeM for characterizing the active substance and polyvinyilpyrrolidone eliminating metastable forms in an oral lyophilizate—A preformulation study-
Borges, P.F., García-Montoya, E., Pérez-Lozano, P., Jo, E., Miñarro, M., Manich, A., Suñé-Negre, J.M.PLoS ONE, 13 (4), art. no. e0196049, (2018).
- Reduction of the formaldehyde content in leathers treated with formaldehyde resins by means of plant polyphenols-
Agustí Marsal, Sara Cuadros, Albert Mª Manich, Francina Izquierdo, Joaquim Font
Journal of Cleaner Production, 148 (2017) 518-526
- Effect of fatliquoring on leather comfort. Part III: Moisture absorption-desorption of leather-
A.M. Manich, J. Barenys, L. Martínez, J. Lloria, J. Carilla, A. Marsal
Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association, 112 (2017) 347 – 355
- Determination of formaldehyde content in leather: EN ISO 17226 Standard. Influence of the agitation method used in the initial phase of formaldehyde extraction-
Manich, S. Cuadros, J. Font, A. Bacardit, F. Combalia, A. Marsal
Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association, 112 (2017) 168 – 179.
- SKIN PERMEATION AND ANTIOXIDANT EFFICAY OF TOPICALLY APPLIED RESVERATROL.-
Alonso, M. Martí, C. Barba, M. V. Carrer, L. Rubio and L. Coderch.
Arch Dermatol Res (2017), 309, 423-431.
- EXOGENOUS AND ENDOGENOUS LIPIDS OF HUMAN HAIR-
Coderch, M. Oliver, V. Martínez, A.M. Manich and M. Martí..
Skin Res Technol (2017), 23, 479-485.
- SOYBEAN-FRAGMENTED PROTEOGLYCANS AGAINST SKIN AGING.-
Barba, C. Alonso, I. Sánchez, E. Suñer, L.C. Sáez and L. Coderch.
J Cosmet Laser Ther. (2017), 19, 237-244.
- Effect of fatliquoring on grain and corium quality of leather assessed by ball bursting and tearing tests-
A.M. Manich, J. Barenys, L. Martínez, J. Lloria, A. Marsal
Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association, 111 (2016) 127 – 140
- SKIN BARRIER MODIFICATION WITH ORGANIC SOLVENTS.-
Barba, C. Alonso, M. Martí, A. Manich and L. Coderch.
BBA – Biomembranes (2016), 1858, 1935-1943.
- INFLUENCE OF VEHICLES ON ANTIOXIDANT EFFICACY IN HAIR.-
Rubio, C. Alonso, M. Martí, V. Martínez and L. Coderch.
Royal Soc Chem Adv, (2016), 6, 15929-15936.
- IN VITRO DVS APPROACH TO EVALUATE SKIN REPARATION.-
Barba, C. Alonso, A. Semenzato, G. Baratto and L. Coderch.
Cosmetics, (2016), 3, 15.
- THE EFFECT OF INTERNAL LIPIDS ON THE WATER SORPTION KINETICS OF KERATINIZED TISSUES.-
Barba, M. Martí, J. Carilla, A. Manich and L. Coderch.
Therm Anal and Cal (2016), 123, 2013-2020.
- THE INFLUENCE OF HAIR LIPIDS IN ETHNIC HAIR PROPERTIES.-
M Martí, C Barba, A M Manich, L Rubio, C Alonso, L Coderch.
Int J Cosmet Sci, (2016), 38, 77-84.
- SKIN PENETRATION AND ANTIOXIDANT EFFECT OF COSMETO-TEXTILES WITH GALLIC ACID-
Alonso, M. Martí, C. Barba, M. Lis, L. Rubio and L. Coderch..
J Photochem Photobiol B. (2016) 156, 50-55.
- PERCUTANEOUS ABSORPTION OF TOPICAL ANTINFLAMMATORIES. A COMPARATIVE STUDY BETWEEN PREDICTED MODELS AND IN VITRO PERMEATION RESULTS.-
Carrer, C. Alonso, M. Zanuy, S. Espinosa, M. Córdoba, M. Pont, N. Godessart, B. Vidal, and L. Coderch
Basic & Clinical Pharmacology & Toxicology (2015) 117, 12
- SKIN DELIVERY OF ANTIOXIDANT SURFACTANTS BASED ON GALLIC ACID AND HYDROXYTYROSOL-
Alonso, R. Lucas, C. Barba, M. Martí, L. Rubio, F. Comelles, J.C. Morales, L. Coderch and J.L. Parra..
J Pharm Pharmacol. (2015), 67, 900-908.
- EFFECT OF LIPID MODIFICATION ON STRATUM CORNEUM PERMEABILITY-
Barba, M. Martí, A. Semenzato, G. Baratto, A. Manich and L. Coderch.
Therm Anal and Cal. (2015), 120, 297-305.
- Effect of processing and wearing on viscoelastic modeling of polylactide/wool and polyester/wool woven fabrics subjected to bursting-
A M Manich, R Miguel, M J Santos Silva, J Lucas, M Martı, D Cayuela
Textile Research Journal 84, 18 (2014) 1961-1975
- TEXTILES WITH GALLIC ACID MICROESPHERES: N VITRO RELEASE CHARACTERISTICS-
Martí, V. Martinez, N: Carreras, C. Alonso, M. Lis, J.L. Parra and L. Coderch.
J Microencapsul. (2014), 31, 535-541
- ANTIOXIDATIVE EFFECTS AND PERCUTANEOUS ABSORPTION OF FIVE POLYPHENOLS.-
Alonso, L. Rubio, S. Touriño, M. Martí, C. Barba, F. Fernández-Campos, L. Coderch and J.L. Parra.
Free Radical Biology and Medicine, (2014), 75, 149-155.
- IN VIVO AND IN VITRO EVALUATION OF TOPICAL FORMULATIONS CONTAINING PHYSIOLOGICAL LIPID MIXTURE FOR REPLACEMENT OF SKIN BARRIER FUNCTION.-
Barba, J.L. Parra, L. Coderch and A. Semenzato
Giornale Italiano de Dermatología e Venereologia (2014), 149,347-353
- WATER SORPTION EVALUATION OF STRATUM CORNEUM-
Barba, A. Baratto, M. Martí, A. Semenzato, G. Baratto, A.M. Manich, J.L. Parra and L. Coderch
Thermochimica Acta, (2014), 583, 43-48
- THE ROLE OF LIPOSOMES IN TEXTILE DYEING.-
Martí, A. de la Maza, J.L. Parra and L. Coderch. G. Pabst, N. Kucerka, M. Nieh and J. Katsaras,
“Liposomes, Lipid Bilayers and Model Membranes. From Basic to Research Application” Chapter 20. Ed CRC Press, ISBN 9781466507098 (2014) 401-414
- BICELLAR SYSTEMS AS VEHICLES FOR THE TREAMENT OF IMPAIRED SKIN.-
Rubio, C. Alonso, G. Rodiguez, M. Cócera, L. Barbosa-Barros, L. Coderch, A. de la Maza, J.L. Parra and O. López
Eur J Pharm Biopharm. (2014) 86, 212-218.
- Use of modified leather shavings in the adsolubilization of 2-naphthol: thermodynamic and kinetic studies-
Agustí Marsal, M. Elena Bautista, Albert M. Manich, Sara Cuadros, Fernando Maldonado
Chemical Engineering Journal 222 (2013) 77 – 84
- Relationship between Microstructure and Properties of False-Twist Textured and Stabilized Polylactide Filaments. Part 1: Dimensional Stability, Mechanical Properties and Thermomechanical Behaviour-
D Cayuela, L Montero, M Riba, R Prieto, F Cano, A M Manich
Textile Research Journal 83, 10 (2013) 1055-1064
- Relationship between Microstructure and Properties of False-Twist Textured and Stabilized Polylactide Filaments. Part 2: Physico-Chemical Characterization, Accessibility of the Amorphous Phase and Dyeing Behaviour-
D Cayuela, L Montero, A Riva, R Prieto, M Marti, A M Manich
Textile Research Journal 83, 10 (2013) 1065-1074
- Adsorption isotherm, thermodynamic and kinetics studies of polyphenols onto tannery shavings-
A.Marsal, F. Maldonad, S. Cuadros, M. E. Bautista, A. M. Manich
Chemical Engineering Journal 183 (2012) 21 - 29
- Microstructure variations of polylactide fibres with texturing conditions-
D Cayuela, L Montero, J Díaz, I Algaba, A M Manich
Textile Research Journal 82, 19 (2012) 1996-2005
- Texturing, stretching and relaxation behaviour of polylactide multifilament yarns-
A M Manich, R Miguel, J Lucas, F Franco, B Baena, J Carilla, L Montero, D Cayuela
Textile Research Journal 81, 17, 1788-1795 (2011)
- PROYECTO LIFE-MIDWOR: MITIGATION OF ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT CAUSED BY DWOR TEXTILE FINISHING CHEMICALS-
Referencia: LIFE14 ENV/ES/000670
Entidad financiadora: Cofinanciado por el programa LIFE+ de la Comisión Europea.
Grupos participantes:
- Innovaciones Cosméticas y Textiles
- Procesos sostenibles y caracterización de materiales
Investigador coordinador: Dr. Albert Manich.
Duración: 2015-2018.
MIDWOR-LIFE es un proyecto que tiene como objetivo reducir el impacto sobre el medio ambiente, la salud y la seguridad de los actuales DWOR (productos químicos repelentes de líquidos) que se utilizan en la industria de acabado textil y sus futuras alternativas, analizando su impacto medioambiental y sus funcionalidades
El consorcio está formado por tres clústeres: AEI TÈXTILS, el clúster catalán de textiles técnicos, POINTEX de Italia y CLUTEX de la República Checa, LEITAT, el IQAC - Instituto de Química Avanzada de Cataluña (del CSIC) y el centro gallego CETIM.
- PROYECTO LIFE-FLAREX: MITIGATION OF ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT CAUSED BY FLAME RETARDANT TEXTILE FINISHING CHEMICALS-
Referencia: LIFE16 ENV/ES/000374.
Entidad financiadora: Cofinanciado por el programa LIFE+ de la Comisión Europea
Grupos participantes:
- Innovaciones Cosméticas y Textiles
- Procesos sostenibles y caracterización de materiales
Investigador coordinador: Prof. Luisa Coderch
Duración: 2017-2020.
Este proyecto se basa en el estudio de los productos que confieren propiedades ignífugas a los materiales textiles, y se pretende reducir el uso de productos tóxicos, como son los compuestos que contienen bromo, formaldehído o antimonio, proponiendo alternativas que sean medioambientalmente más sostenibles y que, a la vez, mantengan el nivel requerido de la propiedad ignífuga.
El consorcio está formado por 7 miembros: el Instituto de Química Avanzada de Cataluña, del CSIC, el Centro Tecnológico Leitat, el centro tecnológico belga CENTEXBEL y los clústeres AEi (Cataluña), ATEVAL (Comunidad Valenciana), POINTEX (Piemonte, Italia) y CLUTEX (República Checa).
