COSMETIC AND TEXTILE INNOVATIONS
Group Leader: Mª Luisa Coderch
The main scientific activity of this group focuses on the study of cosmetic and textile application of vehicles, able to encapsulate active principles. These lipid structures, such as liposomes, microspheres, etc., modulate the penetration of the actives in the different substrates. The effectiveness of the topical application on skin or hair to improve the hydration and skin barrier function, lipid peroxidation, etc. is evaluated. Percutaneous absorption profile of these formulations after being applied directly to the skin or through biofunctional textiles are also being studied.
The basic knowledge of hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of lipid-proteinaceous keratin systems, such as wool, human hair and stratum corneum of human skin is also being explored. This knowledge is essential to design formulations for industrial application in the textile, cosmetic and dermopharmaceutic fields.
- Skin morphology, particularly lipidic structure of stratum corneum
- Vehiculization and penetration of topical actives in the different skin strata
- Cutaneous hydration role in skin barrier function
- Hair morphology, particularly external and internal lipid structuration
- Ethnic hairs, differential aspects of their lipidic composition and structure
- Effects of antioxidants in skin and hair
- Biofunctional textiles, design, formation and characterization
- Skin effect of biofunctional textiles submitted to skin contact
Scientific staff

Mª Luisa Coderch
Research Professor
luisa.coderch@iqac.csic.es
Lab people

Meritxell Martí
Research assistant
meritxell.marti@iqac.csic.es

Clara Barba
Postdoctoral Researcher
clara.barba@iqac.csic.es

Cristina Alonso
Postdoctoral Researcher
cristina.alonso@iqac.csic.es

Isabel Yuste
Research assistant
isabel.yuste@iqac.csic.es

Marc Adrià Oliver
Predoctoral Researcher
marc.oliver@iqac.csic.es
- A comparative study of oregano (Origanum vulgare L.) essential oil-based polycaprolactone nanocapsules/ microspheres: Preparation, physicochemical characterization, and storage stability-
Fraj, A., Jaâfar, F., Marti, M., Coderch, L., Ladhari, N.
Industrial Crops and Products, 140, art. no. 111669, 2019 .
- Action of surfactants on the mammal epidermal skin barrier-
Barba, C., Semenzato, A., Baratto, G., Coderch, L.
Giornale italiano di dermatologia e venereologia : organo ufficiale, Societa italiana di dermatologia e sifilografia, 154 (4), pp. 405-412. 2019
- Prediction of the skin permeability of topical drugs using in silico and in vitro models-
Alonso, C., Carrer, V., Espinosa, S., Zanuy, M., Córdoba, M., Vidal, B., Domínguez, M., Godessart, N., Coderch, L., Pont, M.
European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 136, art. no. 104945, 2019
- Mathematical models for drug delivery from textile-
Martí, M., Martínez, V., Lis, M.J., Coderch, L.
Journal of Industrial Textiles, .2019
- Selective modification of skin barrier lipids-
Barba, C., Alonso, C., Martí, M., Carrer, V., Yousef, I., Coderch, L.
Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis, 172, pp. 94-102. 2019
- External lipid function in ethnic hairs-
Coderch, L., Oliver, M.A., Carrer, V., Manich, A.M., Martí, M.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2019 - Lipid loses and barrier function modifications of the brown-to-white hair transition-
Oliver, M.A., Marti, M., Coderch, L., Carrer, V., Kreuzer, M., Barba, C.
Skin Research and Technology, 2019
- Vehiculation of Active Principles as a Way to Create Smart and Biofunctional Textiles-
Arias, M.J.L., Coderch, L., Martí, M., Alonso, C., Carmona, O.G., Carmona, C.G., Maesta, F.
Materials, 11 (11), art. no. 2152, . 2018
- In vitro penetration through the skin layers of topically applied glucocorticoids-
Carrer, V., Alonso, C., Oliver, M.A., Coderch, L.
Drug Testing and Analysis, 10 (10), pp. 1528-1535. 2018
- Hair strengthening evaluation of anisotropic osmolite solutions (Inositol + Arginine): Cross-talk between dermal papilla fibroblast and eratinocytes of the outer root sheath using a μhair follicle 3d model-
Baratto, G., Caviola, E., Meloni, M., Lionetti, N., Bonfigli, A., Sironi, M., Pieraccini, S., Oliver, M., Coderch, L., Rigano, L.
Cosmetics, 5 (4), art. no. 56, . 2018
- Caffeine delivery in porcine skin: a confocal Raman study-
Alonso, C., Carrer, V., Barba, C., Coderch, L.
Archives of Dermatological Research, 310 (8), pp. 657-664., 2018
- Lanolin-based synthetic membranes as percutaneous absorption models for transdermal drug delivery-
Carrer, V., Guzmán, B., Martí, M., Alonso, C., Coderch, L.
Pharmaceutics, 10 (3), art. no. 73 (2018).
- Solvent-Extracted Wool Wax: Thermotropic Properties and Skin Efficacy-
Barba Albanell, C., Carrer, V., Marti, M., Iglesias, J., Iglesias, J., Coderch, L.Skin PharmacolPhysiol, pp. 198-205. (2018).
- SKIN PERMEATION AND ANTIOXIDANT EFFICAY OF TOPICALLY APPLIED RESVERATROL.-
Alonso, M. Martí, C. Barba, M. V. Carrer, L. Rubio and L. Coderch.
Arch Dermatol Res (2017), 309, 423-431.
- EXOGENOUS AND ENDOGENOUS LIPIDS OF HUMAN HAIR-
Coderch, M. Oliver, V. Martínez, A.M. Manich and M. Martí..
Skin Res Technol (2017), 23, 479-485.
- SOYBEAN-FRAGMENTED PROTEOGLYCANS AGAINST SKIN AGING.-
Barba, C. Alonso, I. Sánchez, E. Suñer, L.C. Sáez and L. Coderch.
J Cosmet Laser Ther. (2017), 19, 237-244.
- SKIN BARRIER MODIFICATION WITH ORGANIC SOLVENTS.-
Barba, C. Alonso, M. Martí, A. Manich and L. Coderch.
BBA – Biomembranes (2016), 1858, 1935-1943.
- INFLUENCE OF VEHICLES ON ANTIOXIDANT EFFICACY IN HAIR.-
Rubio, C. Alonso, M. Martí, V. Martínez and L. Coderch.
Royal Soc Chem Adv, (2016), 6, 15929-15936.
- IN VITRO DVS APPROACH TO EVALUATE SKIN REPARATION.-
Barba, C. Alonso, A. Semenzato, G. Baratto and L. Coderch.
Cosmetics, (2016), 3, 15.
- THE EFFECT OF INTERNAL LIPIDS ON THE WATER SORPTION KINETICS OF KERATINIZED TISSUES.-
Barba, M. Martí, J. Carilla, A. Manich and L. Coderch.
Therm Anal and Cal (2016), 123, 2013-2020.
- THE INFLUENCE OF HAIR LIPIDS IN ETHNIC HAIR PROPERTIES.-
M Martí, C Barba, A M Manich, L Rubio, C Alonso, L Coderch.
Int J Cosmet Sci, (2016), 38, 77-84.
- SKIN PENETRATION AND ANTIOXIDANT EFFECT OF COSMETO-TEXTILES WITH GALLIC ACID-
Alonso, M. Martí, C. Barba, M. Lis, L. Rubio and L. Coderch..
J Photochem Photobiol B. (2016) 156, 50-55.
- PERCUTANEOUS ABSORPTION OF TOPICAL ANTINFLAMMATORIES. A COMPARATIVE STUDY BETWEEN PREDICTED MODELS AND IN VITRO PERMEATION RESULTS.-
Carrer, C. Alonso, M. Zanuy, S. Espinosa, M. Córdoba, M. Pont, N. Godessart, B. Vidal, and L. Coderch
Basic & Clinical Pharmacology & Toxicology (2015) 117, 12
- SKIN DELIVERY OF ANTIOXIDANT SURFACTANTS BASED ON GALLIC ACID AND HYDROXYTYROSOL-
Alonso, R. Lucas, C. Barba, M. Martí, L. Rubio, F. Comelles, J.C. Morales, L. Coderch and J.L. Parra..
J Pharm Pharmacol. (2015), 67, 900-908.
- EFFECT OF LIPID MODIFICATION ON STRATUM CORNEUM PERMEABILITY-
Barba, M. Martí, A. Semenzato, G. Baratto, A. Manich and L. Coderch.
Therm Anal and Cal. (2015), 120, 297-305.
- TEXTILES WITH GALLIC ACID MICROESPHERES: N VITRO RELEASE CHARACTERISTICS-
Martí, V. Martinez, N: Carreras, C. Alonso, M. Lis, J.L. Parra and L. Coderch.
J Microencapsul. (2014), 31, 535-541
- ANTIOXIDATIVE EFFECTS AND PERCUTANEOUS ABSORPTION OF FIVE POLYPHENOLS.-
Alonso, L. Rubio, S. Touriño, M. Martí, C. Barba, F. Fernández-Campos, L. Coderch and J.L. Parra.
Free Radical Biology and Medicine, (2014), 75, 149-155.
- IN VIVO AND IN VITRO EVALUATION OF TOPICAL FORMULATIONS CONTAINING PHYSIOLOGICAL LIPID MIXTURE FOR REPLACEMENT OF SKIN BARRIER FUNCTION.-
Barba, J.L. Parra, L. Coderch and A. Semenzato
Giornale Italiano de Dermatología e Venereologia (2014), 149,347-353
- WATER SORPTION EVALUATION OF STRATUM CORNEUM-
Barba, A. Baratto, M. Martí, A. Semenzato, G. Baratto, A.M. Manich, J.L. Parra and L. Coderch
Thermochimica Acta, (2014), 583, 43-48
- THE ROLE OF LIPOSOMES IN TEXTILE DYEING.-
Martí, A. de la Maza, J.L. Parra and L. Coderch. G. Pabst, N. Kucerka, M. Nieh and J. Katsaras,
“Liposomes, Lipid Bilayers and Model Membranes. From Basic to Research Application” Chapter 20. Ed CRC Press, ISBN 9781466507098 (2014) 401-414
- BICELLAR SYSTEMS AS VEHICLES FOR THE TREAMENT OF IMPAIRED SKIN.-
Rubio, C. Alonso, G. Rodiguez, M. Cócera, L. Barbosa-Barros, L. Coderch, A. de la Maza, J.L. Parra and O. López
Eur J Pharm Biopharm. (2014) 86, 212-218.
- PROYECTO LIFE-MIDWOR: MITIGATION OF ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT CAUSED BY DWOR TEXTILE FINISHING CHEMICALS-
Referencia: LIFE14 ENV/ES/000670
Entidad financiadora: Cofinanciado por el programa LIFE+ de la Comisión Europea.
Grupos participantes:
- Innovaciones Cosméticas y Textiles
- Procesos sostenibles y caracterización de materiales
Investigador coordinador: Dr. Albert Manich.
Duración: 2015-2018.
MIDWOR-LIFE es un proyecto que tiene como objetivo reducir el impacto sobre el medio ambiente, la salud y la seguridad de los actuales DWOR (productos químicos repelentes de líquidos) que se utilizan en la industria de acabado textil y sus futuras alternativas, analizando su impacto medioambiental y sus funcionalidades
El consorcio está formado por tres clústeres: AEI TÈXTILS, el clúster catalán de textiles técnicos, POINTEX de Italia y CLUTEX de la República Checa, LEITAT, el IQAC - Instituto de Química Avanzada de Cataluña (del CSIC) y el centro gallego CETIM.
- PROYECTO LIFE-FLAREX: MITIGATION OF ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT CAUSED BY FLAME RETARDANT TEXTILE FINISHING CHEMICALS-
Referencia: LIFE16 ENV/ES/000374.
Entidad financiadora: Cofinanciado por el programa LIFE+ de la Comisión Europea
Grupos participantes:
- Innovaciones Cosméticas y Textiles
- Procesos sostenibles y caracterización de materiales
Investigador coordinador: Prof. Luisa Coderch
Duración: 2017-2020.
Este proyecto se basa en el estudio de los productos que confieren propiedades ignífugas a los materiales textiles, y se pretende reducir el uso de productos tóxicos, como son los compuestos que contienen bromo, formaldehído o antimonio, proponiendo alternativas que sean medioambientalmente más sostenibles y que, a la vez, mantengan el nivel requerido de la propiedad ignífuga.
El consorcio está formado por 7 miembros: el Instituto de Química Avanzada de Cataluña, del CSIC, el Centro Tecnológico Leitat, el centro tecnológico belga CENTEXBEL y los clústeres AEi (Cataluña), ATEVAL (Comunidad Valenciana), POINTEX (Piemonte, Italia) y CLUTEX (República Checa).
IQAC
Institut de Química Avançada de Catalunya
c/ Jordi Girona 18-26
08034 Barcelona - Spain
Ph: +34 93 400 61 00
Fax: +34 93 204 59 04
