Research | Technological Platforms

Dermocosmetic Assessment

The Dermocosmetic Assessment Service (DC) was established in 2002. This service is divided into three groups: the Percutaneous Absorption group, the Cutaneous Efficacy group, and the Hair Efficacy group.

The Percutaneous Absorption group specializes in determining the absorption profile through the skin of any compound applied topically. For this purpose, an in vitro experimental methodology adopted by the OECD is primarily used.
The Cutaneous Efficacy group specializes in evaluating the efficacy of formulations applied to the skin and nails. The methodologies used are preferably based on the use of biophysical techniques published in internationally recognized scientific journals.
The Hair Efficacy group works on the in vitro evaluation of the efficacy of cosmetic products applied to human hair.

These groups develop their activity focused on the needs of the industrial sector (pharmaceutical, cosmetic, chemical, and textile) and also conduct studies centered on their own research and that of other groups requiring their scientific specialization support.

The DC Service stands out for the quality conferred by belonging to an IQAC-CSIC research group, and in addition to the service, it offers:

  • Scientific advice / technical support
  • Selection of methodologies
  • Design of customized protocols
  • Optimization and validation of new methodologies
  • Research work

Recognition of quality

management

The IQAC-CSIC Dermocosmetic Assessment Service has had, since May 2012, a Quality Management System in accordance with the UNE-EN ISO 9001:2008 standard certified by AENOR with reference ER-0430/2012.

In addition, percutaneous absorption studies have Good Laboratory Practice (GLP) certification.

Services

Dermal Penetration

The Dermocosmetic Assessment Service (DC) offers penetration assays of topical products in the skin, with GLP certification using vertical diffusion cells (Franz cell assay). These assays are aimed at developers and manufacturers of topical and generic products who need characterization of dermal formulations, cosmetic safety, or biobased products for topical generics through in vitro bioequivalence studies. Our main skin penetration assays, offered since 1998, are developed in accordance with OECD, FDA, and EMA guidelines on quality and equivalence of topical products.

They are mainly divided into two sections: In Vitro Release Test (IVRT) and In Vitro Permeation Test (IVPT).

In Vitro Release Test (IVRT)
This IVRT test determines the fluxes and released amounts of drugs contained in transdermal topical products using artificial membranes in different topical applications:

  • Development and validation of methods to measure the release and fluxes of different topical formulations (Test of
  • Bioequivalence, SUPAC-SS)
    Bioequivalence of topical generics as an alternative approved by EMA/FDA to costly clinical studies.
  • In vitro release quality control of manufacturing batches of topical products.
  • Optimization and comparison of different formulations of topical products during the development phase.

In Vitro Permeation Test (IVPT)
This type of IVPT test allows determination of transdermal permeation amounts, diffusion fluxes, and distribution in the different layers of skin and other tissues (human and porcine ex vivo skin, buccal mucosa, nail plate) of active substances present in different topical applications (OECD 428, SCCS 2010):

  • Optimization and comparison of formulations. Selection of suitable excipients and lead candidate formulations for topical products.
  • Safety evaluations of topical cosmetic products.
  • Percutaneous absorption studies through skin, nails, mucosa, or cornea.
  • Compounds to be tested: chemicals, agrochemicals, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals (API), substance-based medical devices.

The service is focused on those laboratories or companies that need in-depth knowledge of skin and hair substrates and that develop active ingredients, formulations, and finished products on them, mainly in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, agrochemical, chemical, and textile industrial sectors.

Certified according to UNE-EN ISO 9001:2008 Standard by AENOR since 2012 with reference ER-0430/2012 and by Good Laboratory Practice (GLP) for dermal penetration assays by GENCAT 2022 and ENAC 2023

Cutaneous Efficacy

Cutaneous Efficacy Test
In vivo cutaneous efficacy
Studies are carried out with white (Caucasian) panelists with skin phototype III-IV under dermatological control, in a room conditioned at 22°C and 50% RH. Some of these protocols can also be carried out to evaluate nail efficacy.

  • Hydration capacity of the skin and/or nails due to topical application (Corneometer)
    Water absorption and desorption test of the skin (Corneometer)
  • Barrier function of the skin and/or nails (Tewameter)
  • Protection of the barrier function of the skin and/or nails against the effect of surfactants, solvents, or stripping (Tewameter, Corneometer)
  • Repair of the barrier function of the skin and/or nails against the effect of surfactants, solvents, or stripping (Tewameter, Corneometer)
  • Elasticity and firmness of the skin by suction (Cutometer)
  • Evaluation of melanin typology and the presence of erythema in the skin (Mexameter)
  • Measurement of the pH of the skin surface (Skin-pHmeter)
  • Determination of the fat content of the skin (Sebumeter)
  • Evaluation of the topography of the skin surface with silicone resin (Visioline)

In vitro cutaneous efficacy

  • Separation, extraction, and lipid analysis in epidermis and dermis (TLC-FID)
  • Ex vivo lipoperoxidation assay of the skin (TBARS) to evaluate the effectiveness of antioxidants
  • Degradative treatments of nails: acetone, hydration/dehydration cycles
  • Absorption/desorption kinetics to determine the permeability of the stratum corneum and/or nails (Thermal Analysis Service (SAT))

Hair Efficacy

Hair Efficacy Test

  • Degradative treatments of hair: perming, bleaching, relaxation, UV photodegradation, etc.
  • Extraction and analysis of hair lipids (TLC-FID)
  • Hydrophobicity / hydrophilicity Determination of contact angle (Electrobalance KSV Sigma 70)
  • Moisture content. Thermogravimetric analysis (TGA TG-50) (Thermal Analysis Service, SAT)
  • Absorption/desorption kinetics (DVS) to determine hair permeability (TA Thermobalance). (Thermal Analysis Service, SAT)
  • Thermotropic Evaluation with differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to determine the thermal stability of the main morphological components of hair (DSC-821). (SAT)
  • Mechanical properties of hair such as elasticity, deformation, and energy at break, etc., Dynamometer Instron 5500R
  • Visualization of the hair surface by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) in collaboration with the Microscopy Service of the University of Barcelona
  • Color determination (Datacolor 400 Spectrophotometer)
  • Evaluation of protein degradation of hair after UV irradiation (Bradford colorimetric assay)
  • Evaluation of free radicals formed in the oxidative process (Electron Paramagnetic Resonance (EPR) Spectrometer EMX-Plus 10/12 Bruker BioSpin) (Magnetic Resonance Service)
  • Lipid peroxidation of hair lipids. Determination of malonylaldehyde content using the barbituric acid test (TBARS)
  • Gloss evaluation (Micro-TRI-gloss Glossmeter)
  • Tryptophan Degradation.(Spectrofluorimetric measurements)

Personnel

Cristina Alonso Merino

Technical Staff